(Footwear News, February 2006)
Ispo Winter Show Breaks All Records
Ispo winter 06, held from January 29 through February 1 in Munich, broke all records: 1,806 (1,600 at ispo winter 05) exhibitors from 49 countries, 81 percent from abroad, presented their product innovations and fashion collections - more exhibitors than ever. Also the turnout of visitors set an all-time high: more than 60,000 were counted, among them 60 percent from foreign countries. While ispo did not surprise with any revolutionary innovations, industry experts identified the following trends in different footwear segments:
Snowboarding: The look is getting more fashion oriented. "They are taking from urban fashion," says AJ Kohn from Bordz, a rider-owned shop in Atlantic City. "Basically, it's a trend that skateboarding already went through." Charly Messmer, product manager at Head snowboards, confirms: "The look is becoming more important. Since snowboarders have skate shoes for the streets, the influence of skating is strong. The decision to buy comes from optics. Function is hidden." So vendors use laser-finish, 3D prints, and sneakers-like applications. In addition, products for women remain one of the main topics. An increasing number of manufacturers are offering boots and bindings, which are adapted to the needs of female snowboarders. Vendors choose fashionable materials like ostrich and crocodile leather and fake fur.
Skateboarding: Simple lines celebrate a come back. "It's going back to classic lines, white and black, very basic and clean. High-tech like air bubbles and other technology is built in now. It's more subtle and assumed," says AJ Kohn. Stefan Lehnert, brand manager of DC Shoes, adds: "Customers care more about function, not only looks. One now combines both smartly." Scott Oreschnick, president of Cal Surf, sums up his impressions at ispo: "Skateboard shoes are basic and clean designs - predominant color black."
Outdoor: Getting basic is the overall trend. Sean Smith, senior designer of outdoor equipment specialist L.L.Bean, observed: "What I call the 'Merrell look' was everywhere as it has been building in popularity over several seasons. This is the kind of basic slip-on suede slipper to the very intricate sole design with multi material uppers." Authenticity is key: "If you do too much fashion, customers see through this," says Lehnert. For cold weather gear Mike Kaier, key account manager footwear at Columbia, identifies the following trend: "Away from shell constructions and into more light-weight shoes with light membranes like Gore-Tex, Primaloft, Event. Highly functional and comfortable shoes."
Running and Nordic Walking: Yet another trend of just being basic. "The basics seem to follow in running as well. Although there are several performance shoes - with shocks or air bags, these are selling to the performance driven athlete. However, it seems that the retro and classic designs are where the volume of shoes are sold," says Scott Oreschnick, president of Cal Surf. While Hans-Hermann Deters, Reebok's vice president for central Europe, did not discover any revolutionary new developments in running at ispo, he points out that Nordic walking remains strong in central Europe. "The category is now stronger than non-cleated soccer shoes. It even could become a bigger market than running,"
Sports fashion: Outdoor casual is becoming a big topic. Sean Smith, senior designer of L.L.Bean, noticed: "Mixing of leather and suede or wool and leather in the upper was happening. Some of the award winners were using this concept. These were outdoor casual styles that more looked fashion than technical." Contrary to this is the statement of Thomas Singer, key account manager marketing at Merrell: "In today's sports fashion technology matters more than design."